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C-AJJ4004 New road-use front anti-roll bar

This bar has been developed to complement those road cars fitted with post 1990 rubber springs. Being the softest compound yet used on the Mini in an attempt to improve comfort, they allow more body-roll. This bar will not only reduce body-roll, but also slightly reduce dive under braking and squat under acceleration. The bar is aimed at the general daily driver. For more progressive drivers it is highly recommended that its used in conjunction with rear anti-roll bar kit C-AJJ4009. By testing various settings its possible to attain a very well balanced fast road car with improved steering response to compliment the other advantages of these bars. It is made to only fit the standard diameter/dimensioned tie-rods.

SUSPENSION - Terminology

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

The Verto/Valeo type diaphragm included the pressure plate in its assembly, much like a 'normal' car set-up. The spring being of the 'finger' type as opposed to the disc spring used on earlier, three-piece assemblies. There were originally three diaphragm specifications using progressively stronger springs - small-bore, big-bore, and Metro Turbo. Later joined by the type used on the injection cars, though most definitely not interchangeable. Initially, the biggest problem was the Turbo ones were never really available on their own. If you wanted one you had to buy a whole clutch/flywheel assembly - the cost exorbitant. Rover originally believed that if the clutch plate was worn out, then the flywheel and pressure plate would be too. It has only been recent times that the diaphragm/pressure plate has been available on it’s own - but not until after the Turbo unit became unavailable. Even that has changed recently with the cessation of the Turbo diaphragm as a service part.

What you actually need for the disc/drum conversion is pretty straightforward. Disconnect the steering arms, top and bottom swivel-pins, CV joint, and flexible brake pipes at the subframe - that’s it. There are, however, a number of ancillaries to consider.

Basics

Basics Fitting discs designed for the Mini is easy enough. Just make sure you use CV gaiters for the disc-brake set-up - these have a different bellows shape to stop the gaiter rubbing the inside of the hub. The drum type will rub, then split, shedding grease all over the place. Moly grease is mighty mucky stuff to deal with and doesn't assist braking at all! A tip for racers - to stop the gaiters over-expanding when getting very hot and imitating the aforementioned, put either a decent sized split pin or (my favorite) a piece of very small bore pipe - as in the type supplied with WD40 aerosols, etc. - under the retaining strap on the drive shaft. This allows air to escape and return,

Brakes - Fundamental Considerations

When looking to increase their cars performance, most folks immediately turn to considering higher engine power outputs. Because of this pre-occupation brakes tend to slide down the improvements priority list. However, they are far more important - being able to accelerate at warp speed to hyper-space in the twinkling of an eye is all very well, but disastrous if you can’t stop. You will make a very big hole in the scenery, and possibly end up wearing an wooden over-coat. Getting the braking system sorted out can help to make the car quicker, as you will be able to more confidently, therefore maximising speed in any given situation. Being one of those ‘sciences’ used in the automotive industry I hope to shed some light on the subject as it's another of those where many questions from confused and mislead folks that clog up my e-mail board. The advent of the Metro, and the brakes used on it has spawned a lot of activity in this direction. It was soon discovered that they could b

Engine - Identification Data Updated

If you have the engine tag still attached to the engine - just in front/below the thermostat housing - or perhaps the original engine number in the log book then the following should help you determine which engine you have. For Metro units, see 'Engine - Metro identification data'. Original engine identification numbers 850cc 8A Austin up to 25000 8MB Morris up to 25000 8AM Austin & Morris 25000 onwards 8AH Austin & Morris Automatic 8AJ Austin & Morris closed circuit breathing 8AK Austin & Morris automatic with closed circuit breathing 8WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf 8AC Moke 85H/101 All variants 1969 onwards Note: third suffix letter denotes compression type, L = Low, H = High, e.g. 8AM/U/H101 denotes high compression. 998cc 9WR Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2, pre closed circuit breathing 9AD Austin, Wolseley Hornet & Riley Elf Mk2 with remote type gearbox and closed

How does this affect performance? Not as many folk believe, that’s for sure. For a start, lightweight flywheel/clutch assemblies don’t necessarily give rough running at idle, particularly where a performance cam is used. Nor do they make the engine produce MORE power. BUT they do make a difference to the ACCELERATIVE performance of the car - and that is what we’re most interested in most of the time! Basically, the engine sees the car as a weight to move, via the gearbox. The combustion pressures created by your common or garden suck-push-bang-blow engine have to accelerate not only the mass of the car as a whole, but the mass of the engine internals too. However, the engine can only accelerate the car at a certain rate with what power is left over after the engine internals have consumed their share. The lighter the rotating and reciprocating parts are made the less power is consumed by them, leaving more to actually accelerate the car.

Air filtration - K&N Air cleaner test.

In the forefront of Mini tuning, improving the over-all breathing capability of the very asthmatic A-series the air filter set-up is one that sees priority attention. All the widely available (and widely varying) stage one tuning kits include at the very least a replacement - and hopefully - high-flow air filter element to fit into the standard plastic case,

In the past few years (well, must be nearly 6 years by now!) since I got involved with writing for the specialist Mini Magazines I have been continually fighting with the problem of limited space. This has limited what I have been able to cover, both in subjects and in details. Up until recently (say the past year or so) I have been covering fairly broad topics in a fairly broad terms and detail. Basically trying to cover perhaps the most popular areas dabbled in by the Mini owning masses.

DIY enthusiasts often believe that building an engine to give excellent all-round road performance is beyond them. Mainly from comparisons made between what they have been able to achieve and what specialists say should be achievable from any particular type of engine build.

Generally scrambled further by the non-perfect match of parts and components used between aforementioned specialist and erstwhile DIY-er, and the ritual 'nose-tapping and knowing winks' display of those specialists. Something you can very nearly 'see' even when talking to such folk on the phone - or that inimitable 'ah, yes, well…' So some form of 'black art' is implied. Whilst there is most definitely a degree of 'feel' involved between the real specialist's results and those of just a good engineer - the bones of the deal is subject to no such thing and is certainly within the capability of the DIY enthusiast given the necessary information. And that has been the problem.

Engine - Identification data

Flywheel & Clutch - General information

If there's one subject that gets washed over when transplants or modifications are discussed its the flywheel and clutch assembly. There also seems to be a widely held belief that up-rating an engine from anything other than standard automatically requires a 'competition clutch'.

This, as with many other subjects concerning the Mini, is a myth. May be it's because the prospective transplantee needs not only a bigger/more powerful engine to amaze folk with in the bar stool bullsh*t stakes, but also anything that can be dubbed with the word 'competition'. 'Up-rated', after all, is a fairly tame word.

Although many have written much about how to modify engines, some suspension, and even on bodywork, very little has been written about the flywheel and clutch. Bit strange as it's an essential part of transferring engine power to the wheels! So let us delve into the myths and legends concerning this enigma of power transfer.

Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). Terminology - TDC - Top Dead Centre BTDC - Before Top Dead Centre Establishing an accurate TDC reference point is of paramount importance when developing and monitoring ignition timing (and cam timing come to that). When an experienced engine builder assembles an engine - no matter whether for road or race - he will establish an accurate TDC indicator that can be used for ignition purposes. Usually contrived as a rigid pointer aligning to a corresponding mark on the crank pulley in a position easy to see with the engine installed. Unfortunately, many of us have to deal with engines that haven't had such attention to detail - so either have to make do with the standard ignition timing graduated scale if it's there or sort something else out.

Suspension - Dampers, basic knowledge

The damper's job is very simple to explain - to keep the tyre in contact with the ground wherever and whenever possible...

Contemplating the discussions various discussions and lengthy correspondences on the subject of performance preparation, something filtered through to the surface. Tyres.

I've never covered the subject in any detail before, and it appeared that there's a distinct lack of even the most fundamental appreciation of what tyres are all about! In any competition discipline - or in fact any road-going situation as well - the tyres and control parameters used are so important to success, practically all the effort put into the chassis and suspension is to enable those four, relatively small (about the size of your average 'welly' foot-print) contact patches to give of their best. So something was desperately needed to address the situation. As I said, the ultimate goal is get those four small contact patches to give of their very best.

Having applied Hi-Los and some smart 165/60/12 profile tyre shod12 x 5-inch ally rims, discussions get around to a subject that has cropped up a zillion times in the Knowledge, at shows, my e-mail address, etc. - just why does this combination cause the tyre to hit the front arch?

To be more exact - why does the tyre just rub, twang the plastic arch off, or foul the arch to the point of bending it? Even if the genuine, original fitment 'Cooper' alloy 12-inch rims are used with the 165/60/12 tyres? Well, it's all a question of alignment - either subframe to body or suspension to subframe. When trying to source/cure the problem, many folk have discovered that shim plates have been used between the front panel to subframe teardrop mounting and the subframe - and wonder if the car has been in an accident and been 'fudged', so could be causing the problem.

FOR USE WITH STANDARD TIE BARS ONLY

This bar has been developed to complement those road cars fitted with post 1990 rubber springs. Being the softest compou

C-STR631 & 632 Offset bottom arm bushes

Aftermarket bushes for suspension and subframes have been a topic of conversation for some time now. Many folk have become obsessed about fitting brightly coloured plastic (polyurethane) bushes in place of any rubber bush they can find in the belief they will improve the performance of whatever bush has been replaced. Whilst it is true that polyurethane is harder wearing - and therefore longer lasting - than rubber in many applications it is not necessarily the best material for the application every time. Polyurethane has greater abrasion resistance and is stiffer for a similar hardness, is much cheaper to produce (and therefore sells at lower cost) and can be produced in a wide variety of gaudy colours.

These calipers are intended for use on 10”wheels with 7.5”diameter solid brake discs.

The kit contains:-

2 calipers, one right and one left hand. Please ensure that they are installed correctly with the bleed screws in the vertical position (i.e. at the top)
4 longer hub fixing bolts(53K1049)
4 bolt washers(21017Z
4 round spacers (AN1380) which go between hub and caliper where the fixing bolts locate. Bolts and spacers not required when fitting to vented discs
1 set of brake pad split pins (GBK1025) BUT NO BRAKE PADS.

After a monumentally busy start to the year work-wise, I made a concerted effort to get the car sorted to get back out there and have some fun. My plans for stripping the car back to the shell and re-checking all the suspension alignment starting from the shell and subframes went to hell in a hand cart, so it was a case of building an engine and doing my best to re-sort the suspension geometry to try and suss this weird and inconsistent handling ....

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